From which it is better to build a bath: general information, features and recommendations, which bath is better to build

If price is critical, wood
Your choice is a wooden bathhouse made of logs and beams of natural moisture. Until now, these materials are the most budget for the construction of the bath. However, high-quality glued timber, and especially real Karelian or Arkhangelsk dead wood, is several times more expensive than freshly sawn (directly from the forest) wood.

As an option, you can build a bathhouse with wooden frame walls, but its price substantially depends on the type of insulation, vapor barrier and lumber. But a good stone (brick) bath is expensive.

Fact: The price is not only the material for the construction of walls. It largely depends on the finish - external and internal. But this is a topic for another discussion.

In order not to be afraid of fire - a stone
A bathhouse with stone walls is obviously safer than a wooden one. And the less combustible materials in the design of load-bearing walls, floors and roofs, the safer the bathhouse as a whole. But to say that stone baths do not burn would be a strong exaggeration.

According to the statistics of fires in bathhouses, their main reason is an improperly made knot of a chimney passage through a wooden floor or roof. Therefore, if the walls of the bathhouse are made of brick or aerated concrete, and the roof is erected using a wooden rafter system, the gain in fire safety will be small.

If you carefully read the fire safety requirements (SP 7.13130.2013) and do everything that is written, the risk of fire in a wooden bath will be significantly reduced, but this will lead to the inevitable complication of its initially simple design.

For example, the requirement of SP 7.13130.2013 to protect a wall of combustible materials adjacent at an angle to the front of the furnace with a metal sheet on asbestos cardboard is relatively easy to implement in a frame bath with stable walls, but in a log bath, the fasteners of a rigid metal sheet should not be rigid, but movable (sliding) to compensate for the draft of the logs.

In order not to overpay for service - a stone
Whatever the bathhouse is made of, to protect it from being affected by fungus and mold in the building, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of at least 15 ° C year-round. So, she will constantly consume energy. Given the fact that a private bath is idle in standby mode for at least 320 days a year, “wasted” heat costs can be quite large.

Here a lot depends on the material of the wall structure.

Both stone and frame wall constructions allow you to build an energy-efficient bath - you just need to competently insulate it and make reliable vapor barrier. The quality of vapor barrier is best assessed not “by eye”, but by instrumental method (blowerdoor). Otherwise, the insulation will get wet and stop working, which will lead to heat loss. But the biggest danger from the penetration of moisture through poor-quality vapor barrier is in wetting the insulation of the chimney passage through the ceiling or roof. From getting wet, insulation loses its properties, and the risk of fire increases dramatically! The availability of gas, a night electricity tariff, etc. will help reduce the cost of servicing a steam room. With all this in mind, you can build a sauna with a predetermined energy consumption, even with the characteristics of a passive house.

The lowest energy efficiency - a log or timber bath. This is due primarily to the high breathability (purge) of the walls. In this regard, the log house significantly loses not only in the brick, but also in the frame bath.Even in calm weather with the same wall thickness, the rate of heat loss in the frame bath will be about three times lower than in the log house. In windy weather, the log house will lose additional heat as a result of stronger infiltration than that of a frame house.

Prices for timber

Disadvantages natural wood (in terms of its use for building a bath) can be considered the following qualities:

• Wood is subject to shrinkage, therefore, the interior decoration of the building can be done only after 5 ÷ 6 months.
• The material requires periodic care, otherwise, under the influence of natural factors, it will lose its original quality and appearance. To preserve all the properties of wood and give protective qualities, it is treated with antiseptic solutions, flame retardants, paints and varnishes. But processing grows old over time, disappears, so the protective layers must be periodically updated. Some owners, having built a wooden bathhouse, prefer to clad the walls outside with bricks, using it as a protective layer.
• Some wood species absorb moisture well, which first leads to its swelling, and then to cracking. Therefore, when choosing a specific material, it is worth first studying its characteristics.
• If pine logs or timber are used that have not undergone special treatment, often when they are heated, copious resinous discharge appears, which can cause burns. This must be taken into account when choosing softwood lumber for the construction of the bath - logs, beams or boards for the interior lining of rooms.

To purchase high-quality wood - a log, timber or plank, when choosing them, you should pay attention to the following points:

• There should be no blue or black spots on the cut of wooden blanks.
• At a beam, the core should not occupy ¾ of its diameter and have a uniform dark color.
• There must be a minimum number of twigs and tar pockets on the workpieces.
• The slice of the products should not have a loose structure.
• The moisture content of wood for building a house or bath should not exceed 20%. This indicator should be demonstrated to the consumer using a special device, a moisture meter. If the seller does not provide such an opportunity, then it is worth questioning the feasibility of acquiring lumber in this organization.

A conscientious seller must, at the request of the buyer, demonstrate that lumber has the required degree of drying

For the construction of wooden baths, chopped or rounded logs, profiled, edged or glued beams are used.

• Chopped log - This is a traditional material for the construction of wooden buildings, including bathhouses. In manual processing of logs, complex mechanization is not used - all branches, branches, as well as bark are removed from the trunks with the help of a conventional ax, therefore, the inner layers do not break.

Centuries-old tradition of construction - buildings from hand-crafted logs

Chopped logs are made in an elite and budget version. Trunks with a diameter of 280 ÷ 300 mm are considered to be elite - such material is supplied from the north-eastern and northern regions of the country. Budget options have a diameter of 200 ÷ 260 mm.

Foundation: the foundation of the foundations

For the bath to serve for many years, it is necessary to build it on the foundation - the foundation. There are several main types of foundations used:

1. tape
2. point-columnar (including "towns"),
3. pile on screw and other piles,
4. plate.

Tape - refers to the category of fairly expensive types of bases, because its production requires a large amount of concrete.

It is a monolithic or prefabricated tape that exactly repeats the alleged external contours of the future structure, as well as the main internal supporting structures.

It is often used in the construction of frame, block and brick baths, as greatly enhances the frame in places of greatest stress.

Point or so-called columnar the foundation is one of the most traditional and easy to manufacture, it is used for mobile wireframes.

Initially, "towns" - wooden chocks were used as point supports. But over time, any wood rots and needs to be replaced, so concrete structures replaced it.

This type of foundation is good in that its device can smooth out the irregularities of the site: it is enough to deepen a number of bases to the desired level to obtain a flat area. It can be used in the construction of small one-story baths.

Pile gained great popularity, especially due to the fact that screw piles can be installed even in winter. Therefore, the construction of frame-panel and other types of baths for which such a foundation is suitable can be started at any time of the year.

The bottom line is twisting specially made piles with equal intervals (the distance between them is regulated depending on the massiveness and size of the structure).

It is recommended that after installation, pour concrete around, and if the bath is large: also carry out additional welding of piles around the perimeter.

Foundations from bored piles also belong to pile, about this, as, however, and generally about pile foundations, we recommend reading the article about pile foundations for baths.

Concrete slab foundation It is recommended for use on moving soils (for example, with the proximity of groundwater). You can use ready-made slabs, or make a reinforced base, which is subsequently poured with concrete.

Blocks: from what material?

Block baths won love among builders and buyers for a reason: they are characterized by incredibly short construction periods with a relatively low cost. If you have a certain amount of skills, you can independently cope with the construction of the bath from the blocks. The most common types of blocks include:

1. foam concrete
2. expanded clay concrete,
3. aerated concrete
4. silicate gas
5. cinder blocks.

Block baths need to be decorated, because do not differ in special aesthetic qualities in a "pure" form.

From which blocks is it better to build a bath?

Ease of manufacture cinder blocks leads to the development of artisanal production, which cannot withstand production standards. However, they undoubtedly have one plus - a low price.

Gas silicate the blocks are highly hygroscopic, require high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier, in addition, it is important not to make a mistake in its types: they all have different parameters for strength and thermal insulation. Application for the construction of the bath is not always justified.

Therefore, answering the question: from which blocks it is better to build a bath, we say: they are well suited aerated concrete and foam concrete - They are easy to use, light in weight and easy to process. The cellular structure guarantees excellent heat-insulating properties, but also require high-quality vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Tree

Wood is one of the most traditional materials that meet all environmental requirements. Today, the industry offers different types of processed wood:

1. log (the most solid material)
2. timber (processed wood of certain dimensions, for example: 100 * 100, 200 * 200),
3. carriage (a log trimmed from two opposite sides is especially popular in the Scandinavian countries),
4. double beam (It consists of 2 boards with grooves, between which a heater is placed, most often mineral wool or ecowool).

What tree is better to build a bath from?

The main division of wood building material lies in the nature of the used logs: resinous (coniferous) or non-resinous (deciduous) species.

What wood is better to build a bath from? From dense and well-dried. Non-resinous species include aspen, but such wood is very expensive, and oak is especially expensive. The fundamental difference is that poorly dried coniferous forest will tar for a long time (tar smudges will form).

Therefore, most often they are built from pine and other conifers. In addition to lower prices (compared with the same aspen), they have such advantages as:

1. straight and straight trunk
2. easy processing of logs
3. knots do not creep inside the wood (as, for example, birch),
4. keep heat well (aspen is significantly inferior in this characteristic).

In view of the above, if you chose a pine tree as an answer to the question: which tree is better to build a bath from, then you should give preference to a well-dried forest.

What forest better to build a bath? It is advisable if it is a winter forest. (i.e. chopped in winter and dried during the summer under cover).

A beam or a log: what to make a bath from?

Each of these materials has its own advantages:

• log bath does not require additional thermal insulation, except for interventional warming,
• bath from a bar it’s easier to lay down than a log, with minimal qualifications to lay a beam with minimal gaps.

Therefore, when choosing a material and from which to make a bathhouse - use the additional information from the corresponding article on our website.

From which timber is it better to build a bath?

For the construction of the bath, it is best to use a well-dried beam: it will give less shrinkage, in addition, there will be a lower risk that the beam will begin to bend. The increased humidity of the timber reduces its heat-insulating properties.

From which timber is it better to build a bath? To select a beam, based on the type of wood from which it is made, you can use the table below:

Wood species	Shrinkage coefficient,%		Mechanical strength for wood with 15% humidity, MPa (kgf / cm²)
	in the radial direction	tangentially	compression along the fibers	to bend	chipping
					in the radial plane	in tangential plane
Conifers
Pine	0,18	0,33	43,9	79,3	6,9 (68)	7,3 (73)
Spruce	0,14	0,24	42,3	74,4	5,3 (53)	5,2 (52)
Larch	0,22	0,40	51,1	97,3	8,3 (83)	7,2 (72)
Fir	0,9	0,33	33,7	51,9	4,7 (47)	5,3 (53)
Hardwood
Oak	0,18	0,28	52,0	93,5	8,5 (85)	10,4 (104)
Ash	0,19	0,30	51,0	115	13,8 (138)	13,3 (133)
Birch	0,26	0,31	44,7	99,7	8,5 (85)	11 (110)
Maple	0,21	0,34	54,0	109,7	8,7 (87)	12,4 (124)
Elm	0,22	0,44	48,6	105,7	–	13,8 (138)
Elm	0,15	0,32	38,9	85,2	7 (70)	7,7 (77)
Softwood
Aspen	0,2	0,32	37,4	76,6	5,7 (57)	7,7 (77)
Linden	0,26	0,39	39	68	7,3 (73)	8 (80)
Black alder	0,16	0,23	36,8	69,2	–	–
Black aspen	0,16	0,31	35,1	60	5,8 (58)	7,4 (74)

According to the results of many studies, a double beam is ahead of that of a conventional beam, but the use of mineral wool as an internal insulation casts doubt on its use in the construction of a bath.

Watch the video to explain the benefits of a double beam. It seems reasonable to conclude that technology is more suitable for homes than for saunas.

For a good warm bath, it is best to use a bar 200 * 200, the use of a thinner bar or half-bar (for example, 100 * 50) will require significant financial costs for external insulation. Although, if the bath will be heated only in the summer (summer cottage option), then not thick walls, 10 centimeters, may be enough.

Foam block

As already mentioned, it has a high ability to absorb moisture due to its porous structure, therefore, competent vapor and waterproofing is required. You can find out about the advantages and strengths of a foam concrete bath in these articles:

Frame baths

They gained great popularity due to the short construction time, as well as other pluses that allow comparisons with timber structures. Caution should be given to the choice of insulation for the frame, since the bath is a structure with an increased temperature regime of use. Therefore, the insulation must be safe and not emit harmful substances when heated.You can read more detailed information in this article: We make wall insulation of the frame bath: the correct “pie”.

A separate article is devoted to the choice of the type of foundation for frame baths.

Warming

No wonder the log baths were so popular, because before there was no such assortment of heaters, that’s why everyone could do it with a simple caulk: plugging gaps and gaps with the help of natural materials: moss, flax, etc.

Saunas from timber already require little insulation from the outside, especially in territories in cold winters.

But in the construction of block and brick baths without insulation you can not do at all.

What needs to be insulated in any bath?

In any bathhouse, regardless of what building material it was erected from, the insulation of the ceiling is required. This is no accident: because warm air always tends to go up. If you do not heat the ceiling, then all the heat will go outside.

If you do not intend to use the attic, then you can do with traditional methods of insulation:

• bulk heaters (sawdust, expanded clay),
• clay ceiling.

Find out more:

If you want to make a mansard floor, it is best to make a concrete screed of the ceiling with the addition of various materials, or use tiled heat-insulating materials.

Walls

Insulation will require all walls, except for log walls. To a greater extent this applies to block and brick baths. Frame baths have a heater already inside the frame, so additional insulation is appropriate if you are in an area with extremely cold winters. More information on wall insulation.

Any floor needs to be insulated, especially if the foundation has not been thermally insulated. Depending on the organization of the floor in your bath (heavy or non-heavy), the choice of insulation depends on. If the floor is pouring, then the insulation must be protected from moisture, otherwise when wet it will lose all its properties. More information on floor insulation here.

A little about insulation

It must be understood that it is impossible to purchase a batch of one type of insulation and use it to insulate the entire bath.

This topic is the subject of heated debate, which only flare up brighter with the advent of another new product on the market of insulation.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the materials from the section about heaters for baths:

From what to make a bath quickly and inexpensively?

From what to make a bath quickly and inexpensively? Choose one of the offers on the turnkey basis on the market, or build it yourself from timber or foam concrete. These materials require minimal skill and dexterity. The use of natural insulation will also reduce the cost of the project.

They are also popular because of the cheapness and simplicity of execution of the frame walls of the baths, we recommend that you familiarize yourself.

Output

It is difficult to give an unambiguous answer to the question: from which it is better to build a bath, as you see, the choice is huge. It is worth focusing on your personal preferences and budget options. We have tried to provide you with a detailed section of information that will make it easier for you to understand this difficult topic and find the solution you need.

Where to order, buy

It is possible to buy heaters, timber, wood for baths in one company, which are presented in the relevant sections.

In addition, there is the opportunity to order a design and construction service for baths of various types. Particularly in demand among customers are frame, frame-panel, mobile frame baths and foam blocks.

General requirements for bath materials

Choosing what to build a bath from, many are guided only by the financial component: someone needs cheaper, and someone believes that the high price guarantees the durability of the steam room. The cost of construction is an important factor, but far from the only one. First of all, one should build on those conditions in which wall materials will have to work.In the case of the bathhouse, this is high humidity and a constantly changing temperature regime.

In winter, the sauna is operated especially intensively and experiences great thermal stress.

To choose the right material for the steam room, you need to determine how much it meets the requirements listed below:

1. Incombustibility is ideal. In fact, for the construction of the bath it is allowed to use combustible materials (for example, wood), but only after processing with flame retardants.
2. Moisture resistance - and this requirement is not too stringent, because modern construction and finishing technologies can protect any walls from water.
3. Workability - if you have to set up a bath yourself, this factor must be taken into account. Materials that are difficult to process will require an expensive special tool, a lot of time and effort - do not complicate your life.
4. Environmental friendliness - they often have different meanings in this concept, but it is necessary to focus primarily on the safety and comfort of the procedures. Simply put, when heated, building materials should not emit harmful substances or unpleasant odors into the air, and also have the property of vapor permeability.

Also, do not lose sight of the thermal conductivity of the walls of the bath - the lower it is, the faster the interior will warm up and cool more slowly. Of course, this will not do without additional insulation, but it is desirable to realize the opportunity to save on insulation.

Returning to the issues of the cost of building materials, it is pointless to consider the prices for them in themselves - they should be correlated with the durability of the bath. Frequent overhauls or expensive finishes will negate the savings from buying cheap materials.

Brick

Strong brick is suitable for the construction of truly durable and fireproof buildings. But working with him will drag on for a long time, since you have to lay out small pieces of material - experience and skill are needed here.

The brick bath has a large thermal inertia and requires the installation of a powerful furnace

Brick has a high heat capacity, that is, it slowly heats up and cools. But he’s more likely to give up the stored energy to the environment than to the steam room. Such a bath must be insulated from the inside, as well as taking care to protect the walls from moisture - the brickwork passes it well. A heated steam room will be able to retain heat for about a day, if leaks are eliminated to the maximum. Agree: with the high cost of the brick itself and given the construction time, this option is far from optimal.

The disadvantages of masonry include its large weight, which puts pressure on the foundation, so the foundation will have to be built quite powerful - at least pour concrete tape, which will also be expensive. At the same time, do not forget that the building may settle slightly under its own weight, so carefully study the features of the soil on the site in order to correctly calculate the width and depth of the foundation.

I have a brick sauna, it’s lined with pine inside (you’ll build in no case lined with pine, the resin has been coming out for a year, and the boards are leading) So I didn’t notice much difference when I was steaming in the bathhouse completely from wood. Here it is more important than you will finish it from the inside.

ramzes111

http://houseinform.ru/forum/banya_iz_dereva_ili_kirpicha

Aerated concrete

Warm and lightweight material has an undesirable property - high water absorption (up to 35% by weight). Porous concrete absorbs water no worse than a sponge, but gives it extremely reluctantly. And if in the warm season it simply worsens its thermal insulation characteristics, then with the advent of frost the accumulated moisture breaks the blocks from the inside. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to carefully waterproof and vapor barrier the rooms, as well as protect the aerated concrete from the outside with a waterproof but breathable finish.A ventilated facade or special plaster is best suited.

A plain-looking bathhouse after exterior decoration will not be any different from a wooden or brick one

Building from lightweight blocks moves faster, because they are large (usually 600x200x300 mm), do not require a powerful foundation, and are easier to transport. Processing and cutting into additional elements also does not cause difficulties - all this is easily done using a hand tool. In the pros, we write down the incombustibility of the cellular material.

The cost of aerated concrete can be called acceptable - it is 2-3 times cheaper than solid wood, but here you will have to take into account the more expensive masonry mixture and the need for reinforcing the rows. A serious problem of cellular concrete is their low bending strength - it is 3-5 times less than the compressive strength. And if you do not provide the horizontal rows of masonry with an even distribution of loads, cracks will simply go into the walls. Difficulties also arise during cladding: fragile aerated concrete easily breaks, so fixing the crate to it turns into a very painstaking and risky process.

As for the durability of aerated concrete - the question remains open so far. The production of foam blocks began only 30 years ago and it is too early to judge the life of such buildings. Subject to the construction technology and operating conditions, the manufacturers promise that the first overhaul of aerated concrete masonry will be needed only after 60 years (examples in Europe confirm this).

Anyway,Aerated concrete, despite all the similarities of characteristics with natural wood, is better to use for the construction of residential facilities and buildings that do not experience such serious water tests as a bathhouse. The walls of the house or garage can simply be plastered to protect them from excess moisture, and in the steam room this number does not work.

My neighbor on the contrary made a bath of aerated concrete. The bath turned out to be warm, but very humid. These are the properties of aerated concrete. He slowly picks up moisture and gives it away very slowly. In order to at least somehow deal with strong moisture, a neighbor set a window that opens and dries the bath after washing, opening the window and door, as Since they are located on opposite walls, a draft can somehow solve the problem of high humidity.

motorist

https://www.forumhouse.ru/posts/2589133/

Table: Comparison of the characteristics of piece building materials

Main characteristics	Brick	Aerated concrete	Gas silicate
Density, kg / m 3	1100 – 2000	500 – 800	500 – 1000
Compressive strength, kgf / cm 2	50 – 150	25 – 100	25 – 150
Thermal conductivity, W / m · ° С	0,32 – 0,6	0,12 – 0,19	0,3 – 0,5
Vapor permeability, mg / m · h · Pa	0,11 – 0,17	0,15 – 0,23	0,2 – 0,23
Frost resistance cycles	50	10 – 35	25 – 50
Water absorption,%	9	18	12
Shrinkage, mm / m	0	2 – 5	0,5

Frame bath

Here, not only the technology of erecting walls, but also the combination of the materials used plays its role. For a bathhouse, the rigid frame construction will be a rigid construction made of 100x100 or 150x150 mm timber. But the material must be dried to 18–20% humidity even before installation, otherwise the entire building will be skewed in the first two months. It is necessary to sheathe the finished frame with panels with good indicators of moisture resistance and thermal insulation (they often use OSB).

Frame sauna after finishing with a block house

The advantages of a frame bath:

• Low cost and consumption of building materials,
• High speed and ease of construction,
• Light weight (minimum foundation load).

In the case of a frame bath, the most important thing is the quality of insulation and decoration — and it is precisely because of these additional costs that the cost-effectiveness of such a building fades into the background. In the end, the cost of building a frame by all the rules may well be equal to the final price of aerated concrete baths.

There is another unpleasant moment: sometimes you have to finish the frame bath twice. The first time is within one to two weeks after the erection. It is impossible to leave the building longer without protection so that the insulation does not get wet.After that, the building will gradually sit down, and this process will drag on for a year or two. As a result, the decoration and even the shields themselves can disperse in some places, and the owners will have to embroider the frame and alter a lot. Minimum shrinkage will give only a chamber drying beam, that is, more expensive.

The skeleton wins in terms of warm-up time, cost, loses to the tree by adjusting the temperature (either “on” or “off”), cooling quickly (firewood should be thrown regularly).

Ya1

http://www.e1.ru/talk/forum/read.php?f=120&t=212276

Arbolite blocks

Heat-saving technology of construction from wood concrete, of course, has its advantages. True, this requires that your site is geographically close to the manufacturer of quality blocks. Otherwise, delivery will seriously increase the final cost of the material. But the most unpleasant thing is that the quality of the composite may turn out to be rather low: there are still few large manufacturers of arbolite, but they have enough orders for products. So they are in a hurry to ship material that has not yet dried out and has not gained strength, which simply spreads in the masonry. However, arbolitic blocks today again become popular due to the simplicity of manufacture - production can be established right at the construction site.

Arbolite masonry sits in the first two months after erection under the roof. This time must be waited before proceeding to the finishing work

In its characteristics, arbolite almost does not differ from foam concrete, although, in addition to air chambers, wood chips are also present in it. It is not able to maintain combustion, as it is completely covered by a cement sheath. But natural fibers give building blocks some elasticity, allowing them to absorb bending loads without cracking. In matters of moisture resistance, arbolite is far from ideal, which is needed for a Russian bath, so again, steam and waterproofing work awaits the owners. However, moisture in the blocks does not accumulate, but is discharged outside, unlike most cellular concrete.

Geometry arbolita leaves much to be desired. And if in the case of pouring wood concrete into the formwork this does not matter, then the height of the masonry will have to be controlled in each row and on each block. In handicraft wood concrete, these problems are especially noticeable, and in order to compensate for deviations in the size and parallelism of the faces, the seam is made not less than 10–15 mm thick. Now we add to this the high cost of high-quality material compared to the more common foam and aerated concrete in order to recognize: the use of arbolite blocks for building a bath is not suitable for a few. It is better to use them on moving and very heaving soils.

The material for the bath is not bad, but you need to use it wisely.
Namely: it is possible to insulate if the arbolite is not plastered, it breathes wonderful, the pie will turn out like this:
inner lining (solid wood), ventilation gap 1.5–2 cm, vapor barrier, basalt insulation 5–10 cm, wood concrete, windproof film, ventilation gap 2–5 cm, outer lining.

Zyby

https://www.forumhouse.ru/posts/2537716/

Cinder blocks

The cinder block bath will last quite a long time, and the construction will be quick and relatively inexpensive. Those who have already mastered their production at home with the help of simple vibrating presses can also save on materials. Moreover, available blast furnace slag, and sometimes construction waste, such as brick or concrete chips, is used as a filler. Of course, the use of the latter can make the characteristics of the finished blocks unpredictable, but for a small one-story bathhouse, the changes will be uncritical.

The nuance that will have to be considered when choosing an exterior finish: stucco does not hold well on masonry from cinder block

• fire resistance
• durability,
• mechanical strength
• resistance to biological corrosion,
• Relatively light weight and convenient size.

Cinder block is not afraid of excess moisture, but only in the sense that mold does not develop in it. But with the advent of winter, the water that has accumulated inside the artificial stone will destroy it from the inside, so you still have to take care of the waterproofing of the masonry. The second drawback of cinder blocks is not at all convincing - external unattractiveness. The problem is easily solved with the help of decoration. What is more serious is that in such a solid masonry it is difficult to carry out engineering communications. And although there are usually few of them in the bathhouse, you will have to torment yourself with the arrangement of the washing and ventilation products. The cinder block is not only difficult to process, it also poorly resists frost, bending loads, although its compressive strength is quite decent (25–150 kgf / cm 2).

Two years ago, I built it myself from a cinder block, it turned out super. It is better to insulate everything from the inside, otherwise it will turn out somehow crooked. Do not forget that the main thing in the bathhouse is ventilation and is better mechanically adjustable, that is, do not forget to leave a vent gap between the casing and insulation, the crate should not interfere with the air flow.

Gip

http://forum.dwg.ru/showpost.php?s=8150974cb4cfeefd8a6b4b729da7f18f&p=703185&postcount=4

Expanded clay blocks (KBB)

Another material resulting from experiments on concrete mortar. Expanded clay itself has good thermal insulation characteristics, which in part also tells the finished pressed block. But the wall material turned out to be very moody in operation. It, like arbolit, is sensitive to moisture (internal pores easily absorb it), but at the same time expanded clay concrete does not tolerate sharp temperature drops that occur during winter bathing.

To save on finishing work, you can use KBB with textured cladding on the outside

KBB is a lightweight material, that is, it has the same positive properties as cellular concrete:

• Doesn't need a strong foundation
• It is produced in large blocks, which speeds up the masonry process,
• Suitable for beginners for the first construction.

At the same time, it is stronger, more calmly tolerates foundation vibrations, but it does not hold well. Unfortunately, cheap expanded clay concrete has a low surface quality. And if the inside will hide all its shortcomings from the inside and the facade, then when laying the rows each of them will have to be smoothed out with adhesive solution, which is not cheap. To compensate for height differences, sometimes you have to make a very thick seam - up to 5 mm, and this is a serious decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls. Drilling and hammering nails into expanded clay is also not an easy task, you need to take either long studs stitching the entire block through (and this is about 30 cm), or buy expensive chemanker.

Generallybuilding a bath from KBB, even taking into account all the insulation and finishing work, will be 1.5–2 times lower than in the case of timber. But compared to foam concrete blocks, the installation process will be time-consuming.

Cons of expanded clay concrete (in my opinion):
1. Poor heat capacity.
2. Terrible quality of geometric dimensions.

But this is nonsense, compared with the main thing.

3. It is absolutely impossible to fasten anything RELIABLE to the wall of these blocks. You will not hammer a nail. Do not screw the screw.

It took a long time to select the QUALITATIVE EXPensive dowels suitable in length and diameter. Those. to attach a normal outlet, you need to buy two dowels at the price of three outlets. And so - with each switch, sconce, platband, door, etc., etc., etc.

My advice. Make the inner masonry from white foam concrete blocks. Beauty. Plain. Smooth. You can fasten with any dowel and even just a screw.

Saturn MK

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/55980/

Table: Comparison of the characteristics of composite blocks

Main characteristics	Expanded clay	Cinder block	Arbolite
Density, kg / m 3	700 – 1500	500 – 1000	550 – 700
Compressive strength, kgf / cm 2	50 – 100	25 – 150	20 – 50
Thermal conductivity, W / m · ° С	0,13 – 0,45	0,4 – 0,5	0,1 – 0,13
Vapor permeability, mg / m · h · Pa	0,08 – 0,09	0,08 – 0,14	0,12 – 0,18
Frost resistance cycles	50	20	25 – 50
Water absorption,%	50	75	75
Shrinkage, mm / m	0,3 – 0,5	0	0,4 – 0,8

Natural stone

In some regions it is more accessible than wood, and there is nothing to argue about its durability. The advantages of stone include resistance to atmospheric phenomena and incombustibility. There are much more minuses: considerable weight, high thermal conductivity, processing complexity and high cost.

Regardless of the chosen building material, the steam room still needs to be lined with wood inside

Sawdust concrete

Do not confuse these building blocks with wood concrete. Due to the smaller fraction of wood fibers going as a filler, sawdust concrete also has a small porosity. Sand is also added to the mixture. Naturally, this made the blocks heavier and stronger, but noticeably lost in the thermal insulation characteristics. However, if the reliability of the construction is more important than the cost of insulation, sawdust concrete should be considered as an acceptable option. The advantage of this material is a simpler manufacturing technology than arbolite. Although the components are almost the same, there are no particularly stringent requirements for wood filler, because it does not so seriously affect the quality of building blocks.

Gas silicate

This material is also called autoclaved aerated concrete, and it surpassed its closest "relative" in many ways. Gas silicate is characterized by a more uniform distribution of air pores in the thickness of concrete, greater strength and regularity of form. But in terms of moisture absorption, it remained problematic: to protect the masonry in the steam room from the inside, it will have to be smeared with liquid glass.

The choice of building materials for the bath is truly huge and is not limited to traditional wood and brick. However, the search for an alternative should begin with a study of the advantages and disadvantages of new technologies. Especially pay attention to the cons of materials - these are the problems that will have to be solved both at the construction stage and during the operation of the bath. Perhaps the cost of eliminating them will not be so great, and you will find a suitable replacement for the classic, but expensive tree.

Features

All steam rooms for private use must comply with SNiP. Requirements for the rules of development of personal plots are set out in SNiP 30-02-97, requirements for the creation of projects for a personal plot in SNiP 11-106-97. It is necessary to start building a bath just by familiarizing yourself with this documentation.

It is important that the requirements for the construction of baths turn out to be more stringent than the standard standards for residential premises - this is due to the high fire hazard of the bath houses due to the presence of a furnace in it.

When buying materials, one should focus not only on personal preferences and cost, but also on the compliance of the proposed products with the conditions inside the steam room and in adjacent rooms.

The materials used for the construction of the facility must meet the following requirements:

• provide high thermal insulation performance,
• have the necessary fire safety threshold,
• be environmentally friendly - do not release toxic compounds during operation and heating,
• have resistance to moisture.

It is almost impossible to find material that simultaneously meets all of these requirements. However, special processing or the use of auxiliary materials can achieve balance. For example, wood is an environmentally friendly and warm material that is durable. Increase moisture and fire resistance of wood allows flame retardant treatment.

When planning the construction of the bath, it should be understood that even a small-sized structure needs preliminary design.Drawing up drawings and the availability of calculations ensures a high-quality and reliable design, so it is better to start with the creation of the project.

Do not forget that the bath should be built at a distance of 10-15 m from residential buildings.

What material to choose?

When installing the bath, the climate features, its size and number of storeys are taken into account. For example, if a bathhouse with accommodation, for example, having a second floor or an attic is used, then a solid foundation is required, the selection of certain materials for walling.

The walls of the structure are traditionally laid out of wood or brick. However, today the construction market offers new materials. Each of them has characteristic advantages and disadvantages, therefore, the choice of a particular option should be approached responsibly.

An obligatory element of most baths is insulation. Exceptions are only paired at the cottage, which are used only in the warm season, while it is desirable that they be built of wood.

Exterior decoration of the baths allows you to increase the protection of the material of the walls, to give the structure an external appeal. It is recommended to choose a single finish for the house, bath and other buildings, which will create a single exterior.

Pine

Thanks to the emitted resin, this wood is protected from mold and pests. The material is moisture resistant, pleasant in appearance, has a low cost. However, during the heating process, pine releases a resin that can be burned.

In this regard, it is not recommended to use pine wood in the steam room.

This type of wood has good heat resistance. For use under the bath, linden should be subjected to special treatment, since it is characterized by low moisture resistance. Over time, the material darkens.

Aspen

At first glance it seems that aspen is the optimal variety for organizing a steam room. It has qualities such as high density, which only increases over the years, moisture resistance, the ability to retain heat and a pleasant reddish tint. However, due to the increased density, the material is difficult to process, and also has a considerable cost. The main feature is the release of substances that negatively affect a person when heated (the head begins to hurt).

Alder

Wood of a beautiful reddish hue does not shrink, does not emit toxic substances when heated. To prevent rotting of the material allows the use of special impregnations. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the ability of the material to darken after several years of operation, as well as its high cost.

The construction of the bath can also be carried out from timber - rounded or profiled. The first type is considered environmentally friendly and attractive, and therefore the design does not need external and internal lining. Due to the ability to connect the bars at different angles, it is possible to implement a variety of design decisions. Another advantage is the high thermal insulation. You should know that the material shrinks, so it is important to observe the installation technology and give the building time to shrink the log house.

Profiled timber is solid and glued. Unlike the rounded analog, it does not shrink. Thanks to special impregnations (flame retardants and antiseptics), it is possible to increase the operational characteristics of the material.

The whole option is environmentally friendly, because there are no adhesive components in its composition, and glued beams have greater strength and are not susceptible to cracking.

A wood bath holds heat well, removes gases and toxins. Being lightweight, it does not require additional reinforcement of the foundation. It is worth noting the environmental safety of wood - in the process of heating, it emits useful elements.The tree is able to absorb moisture, so the walls are "breathable", the room does not accumulate moist air, the steam in the bath is dry and light.

However, this ability negatively affects the condition of the wood itself - it darkens, dampens and rots. To find the "golden mean" allows the use of special impregnation. Another disadvantage of the material is its increased fire resistance. To increase the fire safety of a tree, treatment with antipyrins allows. Finally, the shrinkage of the tree is about 13%, which is quite a lot, therefore, after a year and a half after construction, the bathhouse will have to be caulked again.

For the construction of the bath it is unacceptable to use birch, beech and maple.

A frame sauna is considered a budget option - this is due to the lower cost of the frame compared to brick and timber saunas. However, it should be borne in mind that the installation of frame baths will increase the cost of insulation and interior cladding of the building, and you will have to abandon the use of mineral wool and foam insulation materials and look for another material that would be moisture resistant and fireproof.

The advantage of frame baths is the high installation speed (on average 2-3 weeks), which is due in part to the low weight of the material. This, incidentally, allows you to abandon the additional strengthening of the base. Finally, such a bath can be collected at any time of the year, including at temperatures up to -15 ° C.

The material of the building is environmentally safe, “breathable”, and in terms of its heat-insulating characteristics, the frame structure is not inferior to analogues of timber or brick.

A rock

The stone bath looks monumental and unusual. The material has many advantages: fire safety, low shrinkage, long service life. The stone is publicly available and has a low cost. The shrinkage of the stone bath is only 5%.

However, along with positive qualities, the stone has many disadvantages, which is why it got a little distribution during the construction of baths.

The complexity of the construction is one of them. Due to the irregular shapes of the stones, it is not easy to create a building of the correct form. The stone does not retain heat well, therefore it requires careful thermal insulation, as well as increased consumption of raw materials for firing the furnace. In addition, the material has low gas permeability, therefore, in a stone bath you need to provide a powerful ventilation system to prevent stagnation of air.

Since the stone has large dimensions, the wall thickness of the bath will be very large - on average it is 75 cm. For comparison: the thickness of the masonry is 51 cm, the wooden walls are 15-20 cm. Large sizes and, accordingly, the weight of the material require foundation strengthening.

In addition, stone buildings do not "breathe", condensation forms on their walls. It is possible to level such a drawback only by organizing ventilation and a powerful vapor barrier system.

Despite the low cost of the material, the construction of a stone bath will cost more than building a bath even from an expensive variety of wood. This is due to the peculiarity of the installation of a stone steam room, a large amount of heat-insulating material, the complexity of processing and the large weight of the stone itself.

Other materials

For the construction of the bath, you can use other materials, for example, blocks of wood concrete. Their basis (up to 90% of the composition) is wood waste, pre-crushed to the desired size. They are poured with a mixture of cement with the addition of water glass or calcium chloride. The latter prevents the destruction of wood under the influence of resin acids, as well as accelerate the hardening of concrete.

The material has the following features:

• low thermal conductivity
• environmental Safety,
• high hygroscopicity, which necessitates the use of high-quality waterproofing,
• low cost.

In addition, other positions can be noted:

• Higher heat capacity of the material compared to the heat capacity of air, which means the ability to create a favorable microclimate in the bath. First, the air in the room warms up, and then the walls. In a brick bath, everything will be the other way around.
• Low material strength, which means the inability to withstand heavy loads. This makes arbolite blocks suitable exclusively for low-rise construction.
• The need for external cladding of a building made of wood concrete. For these purposes, it is better to use a lining (the most affordable option, in terms of price), a brick or a tree, impregnated with water-repellent mixtures.

In addition to the selection and purchase of materials for the walls of the bath, difficulties can arise when choosing materials for the foundation and insulation.

Below are the types of foundations that can be used in the construction of baths.

Tape

It is a "tape" of concrete, which is located around the perimeter of the structure. Thanks to this, the strip foundation is considered not only the most durable and reliable, but also the most expensive.

Such a foundation is required for brick and stone baths, as well as buildings with large floors (more than one floor, baths with attics).

Columnar

It has concrete bases, columns located at equal intervals from each other. The columns are connected by wooden profiles, on which the walls are then laid. The advantage of the base is the ease of installation, as well as the ability to put them on uneven areas. Suitable for small wooden baths on one floor. This type of foundation is recommended for wooden baths, because it allows for additional ventilation of the room, which is important in conditions of high humidity.

Pile

This view is somewhat similar to the columnar version, but instead of concrete columns, piles screwed into the ground are used. The advantage of the method is the ability to carry out construction even in frozen ground, that is, in winter. For baths of a large area or number of storeys after installing the piles, concrete pouring is performed, and in some cases - welding of piles around the perimeter.

Tiled

This type of foundation is suitable for moving soils, including when near groundwater. A simpler option is the use of ready-made plates. If you need to save, then resort to reinforcing the base, and then pour it with concrete.

Tips

Having considered the features of the materials used usually for the construction of the bath, you can decide on the choice of a specific option.

The highest quality is considered a wooden bath of spruce and pine. Ideally, if it is produced in the northern regions - such a material is characterized by increased strength and moisture resistance. This option will allow you to maintain the necessary microclimate in the steam room, give a pleasant feeling. Warming up, wood fills the air with forest aroma, which has a beneficial effect on the human condition. In addition, wooden baths are attractive and durable.

If you choose thermally modified wood, then it will not absorb moisture and swell, which means it will last longer. This material is recommended to sheathe at least “wet” places of the bath. In addition, thermally modified wood has a lower thermal conductivity compared to conventional types of wood. If funds allow, then you can sheathe the bath with a thermally modified lining - this will make the structure warmer and save on insulation.

The wood for wooden baths should be harvested in the winter, because at this time of the year it has a high density, and therefore, moisture resistance.

If logs are used, then their diameter should be 18-25 cm. If the diameter of the logs is larger, this will contribute to large heat losses.The logs of one batch should be the same - the maximum allowable difference between individual logs should be no more than 3 cm, because otherwise they will not fit snugly together in the log house.

For the lower crowns of the structure, larch is suitable, as a more moisture-resistant material, not afraid of mechanical stress and frost, the remaining crowns are from pine or spruce. To avoid the release of coniferous resin allows special processing or the use of thermal wood. Another option is not to use conifers for the interior decoration of the steam room. For these purposes, cedar (an expensive option), alder, poplar and linden are well suited - these varieties of trees are characterized by increased moisture resistance and the ability to retain heat.

High-quality logs do not have dark spots on the cut, the cut itself is hard, and the core takes up a third of the cut of the log and is characterized by a uniform dark color. The surface of the logs has a dark or light yellow color, without knots, cracks and tar pockets. Similar requirements apply to timber.

During construction, you should choose a profiled beam that has better processing - this is material that has passed chamber drying. If funds allow, then you can choose glued beams. In addition to a more aesthetic appearance, it gives less shrinkage, does not “turn out” during operation. However, the glued version is not suitable for those who are looking for environmentally friendly material, as well as people suffering from allergies, chronic diseases of the upper respiratory tract.

The cheapest type of timber is considered an un planed option. The cost reduction is due to the fact that it is not dried in special chambers, but in the fresh air. However, the low cost of the material does not always mean the cost-effectiveness of the construction process. When using non-planed timber, high-quality thermal insulation, exterior and interior decoration are required. Moreover, the material shrinks, so after the construction of the base of the bath it is recommended to wait a year before proceeding with further construction.

Before use, the tree must be treated with an impregnation that increases its waterproofing ability, fire and biostability. A similar treatment is recommended to be repeated every two years during operation.

If you need a cheaper structure, then you should pay attention to expanded clay concrete. Build the structure will be quick thanks to the convenient size of the blocks. Moreover, it can be of any size: in 2 or even 3 floors. The material has low thermal conductivity and durability.

In an effort to build a budget steam room, you do not need to choose the cheapest materials - foam and cinder blocks or aspen. Such a bath will last only about 10-12 years, and during operation it will be a lot of trouble.

If you analyze the cost of the material, then the most expensive for the construction of a steam room is considered a tree. If you make calculations in cubes, then it is 2 times more expensive compared to bricks and blocks. However, when analyzing the total cost of construction, using wood is cheaper. This is due to the lack of large expenses for the foundation (some types of baths, for example, an assembled barrel bath, do not require the usual foundation), thermal insulation, exterior and interior decoration.

An expensive wooden material for building a bath is a log, a beam has a slightly lower cost (the cost varies depending on the type). Behind it, for the price, there is a carriage, which is a log hewn on opposite sides (especially popular in the Scandinavian countries), and a double beam (consists of two boards with grooves - between them there is a heater, usually mineral wool).

It is important to choose the right insulation. Some baths require better thermal insulation, while other options imply only inter-crown warming.However, regardless of the material used, any bath requires a warming of the ceiling - this is due to the fact that warm air always tends to the top.

For insulation of the ceiling in the bath, where the operation of the attic is not expected, bulk heaters (expanded clay, sawdust) can be used or clay ceiling is performed. When organizing the attic, the use of tiled materials or the organization of the screed of the attic with the addition of components that provide thermal insulation to the concrete composition for the screed are recommended. Ready mixes can be found in stores. For baths with an attic, insulation of the roof slopes requires mineral wool or foam materials.

Wall insulation requires all baths, with the exception of log baths. This is especially true for block and brick doubles. Frame structures suggest the presence of "regular" thermal insulation material inside the frame. However, if you plan to heat the bath in the winter and at the same time live in a rather harsh climate, then it makes sense to take care of additional wall insulation.

The most fireproof insulators are mineral and basalt wool. Such a material is able to withstand heating up to 800 C, which is due to the peculiarities of the production of materials - stone rocks are heated to 1500 C.

If year-round use of the bath is expected, then floor insulation will also be required. The choice of material depends on the type of foundation and the features of the floor. For screw baths, a rough and finish floor is required, between which a layer of mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam or foam is laid.

Expanded clay is suitable for a pile foundation. It is important that it be of different sizes: the larger one will retain heat, the smaller one will fill the free space between the expanded clay balls. Since expanded clay is hygroscopic, and when wet loses its heat-insulating properties, it is important to carry out high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier.

To create a comfortable atmosphere in the steam room and protect the walls from high temperatures allows internal insulation. Protecting the walls with a layer of insulation and waterproofing, the owner protects them from moisture and thereby prolongs the life of the bath. For greater heat efficiency of the steam zone during its decoration, it makes sense to use a double layer of insulation. The area around the furnace - walls and floor - is additionally insulated with protective shields. If we are talking about a wooden building, then a refractory layer is required, made of asbestos sheet coated with iron.

The minimum insulation thickness for brick baths, which are also used in winter, should be at least 10 cm.

When choosing a heater and flooring, it is important to purchase an option that does not emit harmful components when heated. From this point of view, the use of linoleum is unacceptable.

In the steam room area, it is not recommended to use mineral wool, which is due to the release of phenol-formaldehyde resins from it, which are the binder component of the insulation when heated. Ecowool is also unsuitable for use in the steam room, as it has high hygroscopicity. In the steam room, it is not recommended to use foil-coated polyurethane foam, as well as polystyrene foam and polystyrene, which, when heated above 60 ° C, emit toxic substances. However, they can be mounted in the washing and dressing area - that is, where the temperature does not reach the indicated indicators.

From the point of view of environmental friendliness, the use of basalt wool is preferable. The lack of material is a tendency to shrink, which means a thinning of the insulation layer during operation.

Foamed glass is used on walls that withstand heavy loads, such as brick. It is the optimal insulation for the bath - it retains heat, does not burn, does not shrink, is biostable and environmentally friendly.The disadvantage is only the high cost and the need to strictly comply with the installation technology.

External thermal insulation is usually combined with decorative cladding, choosing suitable materials for this. Brick and block baths do not need external insulation if their seasonal use is expected.

Log baths are always insulated from the outside. Natural or synthetic insulating materials may be used for this. The most common natural insulation is jute, as well as flax, their combined options and moss. Their main advantage is absolute environmental friendliness, and the disadvantage is the complexity of the insulation process.

Synthetic heaters are represented by heat-insulating tapes and combined materials.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight the insulation based on sheep wool, which is considered the best option for a bath from profiled timber. The material is practical, since it performs the functions of not only a heater, but also a moisture, windproof material. It is important that in the process of using the bathhouse the material does not thin out. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the high price, as well as the risk of moths appearing in the insulation.

Experts recommend the use of vegetable insulation for logs and synthetic for timber.

The most common for creating a door in the bathhouse were wooden models. The use of the panel option should be immediately abandoned - under the influence of moisture, it warps. The best option is a solid door.

It is a board or glued boards up to 5 cm thick. A cheaper option is a frame structure - a frame of bars, lined with lining on both sides. If necessary, insulation can be laid between the frame and the lining. In this case, the best sort of wood is linden.

Plastic doors can also be used in the bathhouse - the only exception is the steam room doorway. Metal, by virtue of its ability to heat up, is permissible to use only as the outer skin of the front door.

For saunas, a glass door that has passed high-temperature hardening can be used. Usually this is a glass cloth framed in an aluminum bath and having a small gap in the lower part for ventilation.

There is a myth that glass may burst from the heat, but tempered glass with a door thickness of 8 mm is used for baths.

The material has a large heat loss compared to wood, so the furnace will have to be heated more intensively. Another disadvantage is the high cost, as well as the release of products in standard sizes. However, you can always make a glass door to order the necessary parameters. Unlike wood, such a door does not crack and looks very attractive.

Beautiful examples of buildings

Today, baths have ceased to be a place exclusively for the implementation of hygiene procedures. Modern saunas are real spa complexes, places for relaxation in body and soul, friendship and family meetings. This imposes requirements not only on the size of the steam room, its internal and technical filling, but also on the design.

If financial opportunities and the size of the site allow, you can build a large bathhouse, including not only a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room, but also spacious relaxation rooms, a billiard room, a small bedroom and a mobile kitchen.

Such a building is more correctly called a bath complex. Usually it is built in the characteristic Russian style: from a thick log, with wings on the roof, carved platbands

A fashion trend is to make flat roofs in luxurious saunas where you can sunbathe or just enjoy the view or organize a mini-garden

A convenient option is to place an outdoor pool within walking distance of the bath. To protect the font from litter and the scorching sun, a polycarbonate visor on exquisite forged supports will allow.The pool can have various dimensions and shapes. Fonts with backlight look original. Sun loungers, low tables are usually placed near the pool.

Most organically, such complexes look if they are made in the Russian style. As already mentioned, this involves the use of logs, simple shapes, light shades. Mandatory elements are platbands on the windows, porch, a master woodcarving is welcome.

Opposite options are the bathhouse complexes of the steam room in the style of minimalism. They differ in functionality and compact size. The interior of the room is usually divided into 3 zones: steam room, washing room and relaxation room.

The last component of the room, as a rule, is multifunctional, combining in itself a small dining room, sofas and a billiard room.

Such saunas look especially stylish when using stoves-fireplaces. The furnace of these devices is carried out in a recreation area and is made out by a fireplace portal.

A small bathhouse with an attached terrace or veranda glazed with sliding windows and doors looks spectacular. The terrace may overlook a pond or other water feature.

Another option is a sauna with a veranda. It can be small or quite spacious. In any case, its organization does not require much effort and money. In the resulting space you can arrange wicker furniture and a round table, organizing a cozy corner for friendly and family tea parties.

Lovers of privacy can put on the porch a voluminous chair and a shelf with books, and lovers of active pastime can organize a dance floor. In the latter case, equipment and a disco ball are required. A small bar will be appropriate

If you make the veranda more closed (on the foundation) and insulated, then it will turn into a terrace. It’s a good idea to organize a barbecue area by installing a barbecue or mini-oven, tables and benches, chairs. The pool or jacuzzi, as well as the home spa, look functional and stylish on the terrace. If you make the terrace bright enough, then nothing prevents you from organizing a greenhouse here

The two-story bathhouse is also economical. The main expense item in the construction of such facilities is the arrangement of the strip foundation. The construction of the second floor, oddly enough, does not require large financial investments. On the ground floor there is a steam and washing area, on the second floor there is a bedroom or a mini-living room.

Instead of the second floor, you can equip the attic. There are many options for its functioning - in addition to a recreation area with upholstered furniture and a billiard room, here you can equip a home spa, library or a cozy movie theater

Connoisseurs of high-tech urban styles will appreciate hi-tech saunas. As a rule, these are rectangular buildings or other simple laconic forms of brick or blocks. Preferred finishes - siding panels

The internal filling of such a bath usually delights with its manufacturability - multifunctional electric furnaces, steam generators, shower panels. All this allows you to get spa treatments in tight spaces.

For baths in high-tech style choose gray, beige, steel shades, tinted glass surfaces. The recreation room looks good with masonry walls, high bar counters, original island fireplaces.

Interior decoration is traditionally made of wood. Choosing light varieties of wood, you can visually increase the space of the bath. Darker options with a reddish tint look elegant, give a special atmosphere of comfort, home warmth. For the washing area, as well as the premises for the pool, you can use tiles or mosaics.

It is important that the materials used are in the same style. For example, for a steam room, you can use wood and a stone stove, and then repeat this decoration in the recreation area.In the washing room you can use tiles that also imitate stone surfaces.