Unfortunately, today there are no cheap beds from natural boards in the market, and this is despite the fact that our country has the highest wood reserves in the world. A few compatriots can afford to buy a real bed made of wood, and even a beautiful and large one, and even completely exclusive. The way out is to do it yourself. This is not to say that it is easy and simple, but if you want and follow the instructions exactly, everything will surely work out.
Do-it-yourself bed made of wood: drawings and assembly
Master Requirements
To make a bed it is necessary to fulfill several conditions, and all of them are equally important, the absence of at least one of them causes an unsatisfactory result. In this case, it is much better not to start work at all. What criteria should meet a home master furniture maker?
- Have practical experience in performing carpentry. It’s not necessary to amuse yourself with the thought that 2-3 articles will make you masters, theory can never give the knowledge and skills that can be acquired in practice. You must make independent decisions in difficult situations, feel the tool, not be afraid of woodworking machines, etc.
- Have tools and equipment. Do not think that the quality of manual work exceeds the quality of machining. You will never be able to get the same smooth, clean and smooth surfaces as after a four-sided milling cutter, circular saw or grinder. The minimum list of woodworking equipment you must have is mandatory.
For the manufacture of wooden furniture necessary equipment
Quality lumber is not cheap
Preparing wireframe elements
First you need to draw up a product drawing, which will help to correctly calculate the amount of material, determine the main attachment points and the order of work. When drawing up the drawing, it is necessary to take into account the load on the bed during operation (one or two people will sleep on it, their dimensions), as well as the recommended parameters:
- width: for one person - 95 ± 5 cm, for two - 180 ± 15 cm. For a single bed, 130-150 cm is enough,
- length: for an adult - 200 cm, for a child - about 150 cm,
- frame height - within 40 cm.
Approximate options for a double bed
Drawing and assembly diagram of a wooden bed
Drawing of a bed with a headboard
Step 1. Cut along the length of the board on the side of the bed. You can work with a portable circular saw, the board is fixed on the desktop with clamps.
Cut blanks for sidewalls
Step 2 Level the surfaces on the home planer (flex). In our case, used boards, the surfaces are rather curved. Such material cannot be corrected in one pass, it is necessary to do several repetitions, after each pass the knives lower by 1-2 mm. No longer needed for several reasons. Firstly, not every machine has sufficient electric motor power for a significant load. Secondly, the greater the depth of cut in one pass, the worse the surface quality.
Level the surface of the boards
After leveling the surface, it is necessary to adjust all the boards to the same thickness. This can take quite a while, but you can’t do without such an operation.
Important. If your machine is weak or you have doubts about the quality of the knife, it is recommended that the boards be launched only along the direction of the fibers. If this rule is not followed, then deep burrs may appear on the surface. A powerful well-adjusted machine with sharp and correctly set knives does not respond to the direction of the fibers, on it the preparation of lumber is done faster and better.
Step 3 Align the boards in width. From long boards, cut into the size of the workpiece. Data should be taken from the drawing, it is advisable to first compile a summary table of parts indicating their size and quantity.
Smaller workpieces
Prices for the popular range of face saws
Step 4 On a circular machine, completely align the sides of the workpieces, work carefully and constantly monitor the dimensions.
Trim boards from all sides
Step 5 Saw short blanks in half, these will be bars for the back.
Short blanks cut in half
Now you have all the blanks for making the head and foot. You can begin to manufacture these elements of the bed. But first, sharp corners should be removed from all boards, for which they use an electric mill. This is a very good tool for universal use, with its help not only technological fastening seats are made, but also decor elements.
Using the cutter, grind the sharp edges of the parts
Practical advice. At the first opportunity, make a special table for such a cutter. Drawings and diagrams are on the Internet, the time spent will pay for itself at the first production of furniture.
Backrest preparation
Free up your workplace. The table should be even and clean, its dimensions should allow to lay out the parts for proper marking.
Step 1. Lay out on the table two sidewall bars and a jumper board. Mark the joints, before this check the dimensions of the workpieces, they should be completely identical. After you mark the location of the crossbars on the legs vertically, you need to make labels taking into account the placement of the fastener along the width of the bars. To facilitate the process, use flat boards with a thickness of 10 mm as supports, lay parts on them and mark the lines of the groove outline. The layout must be done very carefully, errors will always be noticeable, and this has a negative effect on the appearance of the bed. All markings should be completely symmetrical for the two sides of the head and foot.
Headboard parts are laid on the table and markup
Step 2 Drill holes in the sides and tighten the parts with screws. The transverse boards in our example are wide and thick, for reliable fixation, four self-tapping screws for each element can be used. The same actions must be done on the other side of the bed.
Drill holes in the bars, pull the elements together with wood screws
Do not be afraid that holes for self-tapping screws are visible on the front side of the legs. In the future, they will be closed with special decorative strips.
Screw the screws on the other side
Step 3 Transfer the distance between the holes on the template and on it fix another board on the back. You can use a small segment for the template. Fix it on the back of the leg with a clamp and drill with a long drill, transfer the holes to the template.
At the foot of the bed
Important. Never place holes in boards in a line, this increases the risk of cracking. Always do a slight offset, place the holes in a zigzag pattern.
Please note that for each board four holes are made, and only two screws are screwed in. Why do we need the rest, we will tell a little below. Place the back and foot on the floor and check the dimensions of the frame boards (drawer).
Try on frame boards
Step 4 Glue decorative pads to the legs. Spread both surfaces liberally with wood glue and tighten them tightly with clamps. Carefully remove any glue residue with a clean, damp cloth. Leave the elements to dry for at least 12 hours. While the parts are dry, you can begin to prepare the bed frame.
From the outside, wood pads are glued to the legs
Materials
Now go to the nearest building materials store (taking a tape measure with you) and purchase the following lumber:
- 4 boards 2.5 × 20 × 240 cm (pine) for the manufacture of a frame,
- 3 boards 5 × 10m240 cm (pine) for the manufacture of support beams,
- 3 boards 2.5 × 5 × 240 (pine) for decorative decoration,
- 1 bar 10 × 10 × 240 cm (fir or pine) for the manufacture of legs,
- 19 boards 2.5 × 7.5 × 240 cm (pine) for making a rack bottom.
If you go to large shops selling building materials, you will notice that there is wood of various qualities on sale. Choose straight boards with a minimum number of knots (the more knots, the more time and effort you will have to spend on grinding). Of course, high-quality lumber are more expensive, and in this case you will have to look for that very “golden mean”.
For example, for the manufacture of frames and decorative finishes, I purchased high-quality materials, for the legs I took second-grade wood, but I bought the rails for the grating the cheapest of those that I could find.
Tools
Necessary tools: (Do not be alarmed by seeing this list! Your investment will pay off very soon, and then save thousands and thousands ...):
- roulette,
- a circular saw,
- Kreg Jig kit (angle drill)
- drill,
- wood glue,
- adjustable measuring angle,
- belt grinding machine,
- clamps
- 30 mm screws
- 50 mm screws
- 60 mm screws
- water-based acrylic varnish,
- stain
- brushes
- sandpaper,
- putty on wood.
Cutting lumber
Frame:
- 2 boards 2.5 × 20 × 205 cm
- 2 boards 2.5 × 20 × 148.5 cm
Supports:
Legs:
Rack bottom:
Decorative Finish:
- 2 boards 2.5 × 5 × 157.5 cm
- 1 board - 2.5 × 5 × 202 cm
Couch (what I will do).
- 2 boards 2.5 × 5 × 150 cm
- 1 board 2.5 × 5 × 209.5 cm
Making a bed frame
To start the work of creating a wooden bed with your own hands should be with the manufacture of the frame.
I fastened the components of its board, screwing the screws from the inside at an angle. And for drilling at an angle of the guide holes, Kreg Jig was indispensable. The tool is very convenient and easy to operate. Try it, you won’t regret it!
To give the edges of the part a neat appearance, I processed them using a hand plow. If you do not have such a mini planer, you can use a grinding machine for these purposes.
It looks great.
Using a grinding machine, he processed the ends.
After all the parts were polished and the guide holes were drilled at their ends, I applied some wood glue and to the joints.
... fastened the boards with 30 mm screws.
Using a damp cloth, wipe off any excess glue until it is dry.
Using a square, I made sure that all the corners of the assembled structure are straight.
The frame is ready.
My advice: at all stages of work, take careful measurements to make sure that you are doing everything correctly.
Now is the right time to paint the frame.
And why not make paint based on calcium carbonate powder at home? I borrowed the recipe on this site: hnydt.co/2013/08/06/diy-chalk-paint/. For its preparation, I used Valspar brand paint in the color of bleached oak.
It doesn’t look exactly as I expected ... Well, all right.
We make supports for the rack bottom
Instead of watching how the paint dries, I drilled guide holes in 5 × 10 cm boards, which will serve as supports for the rack bottom. To do this, I again used Kreg Jig, reconfiguring it to a larger thickness of the board (simple adjustment with a hex key).
To determine the location of the guide holes, I measured 5 cm from the end of the bar, and then applied marks every 25 cm.
As a result, you should get it like in my photo.
When the paint was dry, I put the frame on its side to attach the prepared bars.
Using an adjustable angle, I drew a line 5 cm from the bottom of the frame.
Generously applied carpentry glue along the entire length of the bar and along its ends.
I placed the bar in its intended place and secured it with 50 mm screws at the ends and in the center. Then I turned the frame over and pressed the block along its entire length with clamps. There should be no gaps between the bar and the frame! Now you can screw the screws into all the other pre-drilled holes.
He noted the center of the sides 148.5 cm long (i.e. 74.25 cm from the edge).
Here you see a 5 × 10 cm block from which the central support beam will be made. I make two guide holes at one end and one hole at the other end.
He put a support under the bar so that it was on the same level with a line drawn 5 cm from the floor (and with two other supports). Applied glue and screwed the screws.
Then I filled all the holes with wood putty. After it dries, you need to polish these places with fine-grained sandpaper.
Making bed legs
For the legs, we need a bar with a cross section of 10 × 10 cm and a length of 10.5 cm. We need to prepare six such bars.
Measured 2.8 cm, set the saw to 45 ° and combined its blade with the mark made ...
These are my legs. In my opinion, they look good. On the left - just sawn, on the right - already polished. Basically, you can skip this stage completely. It is your choice, after all!
Here's how the beveled legs look under the frame.
Under 5 × 10 cm supports 10 × 10 cm legs fit perfectly.
Two legs, located under the central support, I did not mow.
To determine the location of the central legs, I measured 50 cm from each end of the support beam (1/4 of its full length). He drew the center lines and the perimeter of the legs. Having done this, I can not worry that the drilled hole will be outside the legs.
Creation of decorative elements of the bed
Let's move on to the decoration. Since my bed will function as a couch (it will stand with the long side against the wall), a longer piece of decoration will be frontal. If you are making a standard bed, look at the sizes given at the beginning of the article.
I polished the trims and the legs. looks beautiful!
Now that all the details have been polished, you can start painting them! For this, I used a dark walnut stain.
After the stain has dried, I coated the wooden surfaces with Minwax water-based polyacrylic varnish.
After the first layer of varnish has dried, the surface must be sanded to get rid of any bubbles and inhomogeneities. Use a sanding pad (or a piece of wood) for this with fine-grained sandpaper. Pay attention to the white film on the tree - this is completely normal!
It remains to wipe the dust from the polished surface and apply the second and third layers of varnish.
Making slats for the bottom of the bed
Now the decorative trims can be set aside for a while and begin to cut out the slats for the bottom of the bed. In order not to spend a lot of time on measurements, I sawed out the first rail and used it as a reference. Just aligned the ends of the rails and drew a line.
Finished slats must be sanded and wood dust removed with a damp cloth.
Fastening legs and decorative elements
To fix the legs, I used 60 mm screws (two on each leg). Before screwing them, I drilled guide holes with a 2.5 mm drill. Pre-drilling reduces the risk of wood splitting. In addition, the guide holes greatly facilitate the screwing process.
The same goes for the central legs.
The time has come for decorative finishes. We apply glue to the upper part of the frame (the most effective application is wave-like!) And to the ends of the decorative strips.
We press decorative strips to the frame with clamps. I used unnecessary trimmed boards as spacers. This allows not only to increase the pressing area, but also to reduce the risk that traces of clamps will remain on the decorative slats.
Here we are already close to completing the manufacture of our own bed, its shape is clearly visible. It remains to fix the bottom slats.I used a pneumatic hammer and 30 mm nails. You have options! You can use parquet nails and hammer them manually. You can screw in the screws by pre-drilling holes. You could probably even stick the slats to the supports.
I drove two nails at each end of the rail and two nails into the middle support.
Pay attention to the location of the screws that secure the legs. Do not fall into them!
To ensure that the slats are evenly distributed, you can use the insert from unnecessary trimming boards. I did not do this, but, nevertheless, all the rails were located at the same distance from each other.
We fix the last fragments of decorative finishes ... In my opinion, it turned out pretty well! And what do you think?
The mattress fits perfectly!
And here are the blankets with pillows.
Well then, friends. Now you also know how to make a bed out of wood with your own hands. So, a visit to a furniture store is canceled!
Assembling the frame
Let's start with a 40x95 mm board. We will cut it for the legs. We should get 2 elements 910 mm long and 2 - 410 mm each.
Leg blanks
From a board of 45x20 mm we will make the perimeter of the bed and a pair of blanks for the head. Since the saw at the factory is not very smooth, I will manually cut the blanks with a Japanese saw. A feature of such a saw is the presence of very small cloves and their “multidirectionality”. Such a saw gives a beautiful thin cut.
I cut the blanks with a Japanese saw
The following frame details: 200 cm and 165 cm. We made them from boards with a section of 145x20 mm.
Frame blanks
We also prepare the details on which the rack bottom of the bed will be based, the element for supporting the rails and the rack. The stand will be attached to the support in the center of the bed. It is needed for greater reliability.
1. Two sidewalls on which the rack bottom will be supported, 2. A beam in the middle, which will take on part of the load
All ends and rough surfaces should be sanded. Also soften the edges of the details. Using screws, we fix to the longitudinal walls of the rack frame, on which the rack bottom will rest.
I fasten the supports for the rack bottom
To fix the legs to the bed, I used the corners, which will give stiffness in the diagonal direction, and in some places I fastened the parts “on a slanting screw”.
We assemble the structure with the help of corners and fastenings “on an oblique screw”
I highly recommend buying a conductor for mounting«on a slanting screw». It will be useful to you more than once
The legs of the bed protrude 1 cm above the frame. We make the corresponding marking and fasten the parts to the base of the frame. We connect all the details of the bed frame. I collect the details at the head of the head on a slanting screw and corner, at the foot - only on a slanting screw.
Collecting frame
The frame is ready
Trying on the rack bottom. 6 hours have passed since the start of work
The bed frame was covered with teak oil right on the spot. Headboards I brushed to emphasize the active wood pattern. I use nylon brushes for this. As a result, we obtain a surface ready for coating with a decorative composition.
Dust in the apartment did not. Brushed street headboards
I connect two boards to each other “on a slanting screw” and fix it on the frame.
I connect the headboard and legs of the bed
The finished frame is coated with oil.
Rack bottom
From the bars of 45x20 mm we make the rack bottom of the bed. There were some questions regarding reliability, so I decided to shorten the step between the rails and put an additional board at the head of the bed. I didn’t have to buy anything, as the scrap that was not used in the design came in handy.
We fasten the screws on the edges of the rail, fix the ribbon in the center. Why can not self-tapping screws be used everywhere? It is believed that with such a fixation, the bed will creak. We will not risk it.
Reiki is not covered with oil, I think this is useless
We lay the mattress. The design is reliable. It looks pretty. In addition, I managed to decently save.
Want the same bed? See detailed video tutorial.
Frame manufacturing
Step 1. Tear off the boards, the cut angle should be perfectly straight.
Cut the ends of the boards so as to achieve a perfectly even cut
Step 2 Remove the chamfer from the ends with a mill and grind the parts with a grinder.
Every detail needs to be sanded
Step 3 Set the finished head and foot on a flat floor, try on the location of the side boards of the frame. Put the parts in place and firmly fix them with clamps. In order to completely eliminate the displacement of parts during drilling holes, at least two clamps are needed on each board. Assemble the frame in this way, check its dimensions and especially the angles. At this stage, it is not too late to correct the mistakes made.
Assemble the frame, temporarily fixing the board with clamps
Step 4 On the perimeter of the bed, in turn, screw the side boards of the frame.
Screw the sidewalls with screws
Step 5 Apply carpentry decorative strips to the side of the headboard. Replace them, align them and tighten them tightly with clamps. Thoroughly clean the front surfaces of exposed adhesive.
The side parts of the head are covered with wooden lining
Practical advice. Decorative boards are prepared in advance or as needed. Decide on your own, depending on personal capabilities, the chosen technology for assembling the bed frame and the size of the workshop. On decorative strips, you need to remove the edges with a manual milling cutter, the profile of the cutter can be the same as on the other parts of the bed, or new.
Glue the strips to all the bars of the head and foot. After all sides of the parts are processed and the glue has dried, you can begin to fix the bars to the side boards of the frame. Mattress lamellas will rest on these bars.
Fixing rails to the frame
Step 1. Saw thin bars of 20 × 30 mm in size, the length should be equal to the length of the mattress. The parameter can be found after measuring the length of the bed frame.
Cut the slats of the desired length
Step 2 Prepare two short sections of boards for the template. The width of the template should be equal to the distance of the rails from the upper edge of the long side boards. Install them on the side walls, fix with clamps.
Two templates are attached to the sidewall from the inside.
Step 3 Apply glue to the back of the rail and side board, using the clamps, install it in its place.
Glue the rail to the sidewall
Step 4 Drill holes in the parts and screw the screws of the appropriate length. The distance between the hardware is not more than twenty centimeters, large loads will act on these nodes. In addition, the slats can further increase the strength and stability of the bed.
The rails are screwed with screws, previously drilling holes of the corresponding diameter
The same work must be done on the other hand, give time for the glue to completely dry.
Practical advice. Never continue work if the wood glue is not completely dry. At the slightest fluctuation, the adhesion indices are critically reduced; the bonding efficiency tends to zero. The bed will creak while turning, the sounds are very unpleasant and annoying. It is necessary to urgently repair, and for this it is necessary to disassemble the structure.
Preparation of lamellas
These elements are made of timber 100 × 150 mm.
Step 1. Using a circular saw, cut a piece of timber of the appropriate length. First you need to trim it, and only then measure the length. If the saw cannot cut the entire thickness of the beam from one pass, then you will have to turn it and make cuts in two passes. No need to worry if there are discrepancies at the end, for lamellas this is not critical. If desired, you can prepare boards with more accurate dimensions, but for this you need to leave an additional margin in length.
Measure and saw the timber
Step 2 Pass the beam through the milling cutter, align the plane of the workpieces.
Level the sides of the beam
Step 3 Set the ruler on the machine and align the side faces of the bars.
With a circular saw, a thin layer of wood is removed on the sides of the timber
Step 4 Set the ruler at a distance of one centimeter from the teeth of the saw and file the lamellas for the mattress. The number depends on the length of the bed, the gap between the boards should not exceed their width.
Set the required cut width and cut from the lamella bar
Step 5 Pass all lamellas through the milling cutter, smooth their surface and thickness. Fit the boards one size in length, they should fit into the bed frame without reeling, but the presence of large gaps is not welcome. The bar has a thickness of only two centimeters, so it can not withstand a large load. In addition, to increase the strength of the structure, some boards can be screwed with screws, and this is an additional tensile force.
Level the surface of each lamella
Step 6 Replace the boards, evenly distribute them along the length. To prevent lamellas from moving when using the bed, they can be fixed with two tapes on the sides of the bed. The tapes to the boards are fixed with a stapler.
Boards are evenly spread inside the frame
For a double bed, reinforcement of the frame with a longitudinal beam in the center is additionally required
The bed is ready, now it remains to paint or varnish it. Before coating, it is recommended that the tree be soaked with stain, this composition emphasizes the beauty of natural boards.
How to paint a wooden bed
Pros and cons of a wooden bed
Wooden beds have both pros and cons. Although the advantages are much greater. Among wood bed advantages distinguish:
- Solid wood is a natural material, which means that it is environmentally friendly and does not exhale harmful substances. After simple preparation and processing, the tree retains all its useful properties. A separate feature of a tree is its natural smell, which cannot be said about MDF and particleboard.
- Another significant advantage is the strength and durability. It is no coincidence that wooden beds have not gone out of fashion for centuries, they are inherited. In addition, they are easy to restore.
- The furniture is easy to clean, just wipe the dust periodically.
- It is easy to fall asleep on a wooden bed, and sleep is healthy and without awakenings. A certain microclimate is created, which contributes to good emotional and physical well-being.
Exist and drawbacks of a wooden bed:
- Big weight, you will immediately feel it during transportation or even when reinstalling to another place.
- The tree does not like high temperature and high humidity.
- Massive beds are quite expensive if you purchase industrially manufactured furniture.
How to build a wooden bed
I have long wanted to put a solid wooden bed. Not going to buy, I decided to make a bed of wood with my own hands. In this article, I will share step-by-step instructions for this work. First, we outline the main stages, and analyze each in detail.
Drawing up a detailed drawing of a wooden bed
Any work related to the manufacture of furniture involves drawing up a drawing. My double bed was no exception.
- After I decided on the type of double bed and its size, I made a detailed drawing and diagram. According to the drawing, I bought for work building materials in the right quantity and certain sizes. Some of the elements had to be ordered in a furniture workshop for manufacturing. All the while I was working on making the bed, I used the drawing.
- But first I picked up the mattress, then decided on the size of the bed and began to draw up a drawing. All my further work was built on the size of the mattress.
- The choice of wood type depends on financial possibilities; ash and oak are among the elite varieties; larch and pine are the more accessible wood species. I do not recommend considering other types of wood, as they do not fit in structure and strength.
- Then I decided on the material for the supporting frame, my choice fell on the boards of solid wood - larch. This is a unique tree, but very heavy, which, in principle, was what I needed.
Procurement of materials and preparation of tools
For work, I bought straight boards without knots. Of course, quality lumber is more expensive, but it's worth it. In the table you can see all the necessary boards with dimensions:
Design Elements Quantity Type Size
Ready headboard Pine Panel 3.0 * 85 * 160 cm
Frame 4 boards Larch 2.5 * 20 * 240 cm
Support beams 3 boards Pine 5.0 * 10 * 240 cm
Decor 3 boards 2.5 * 5 * 240 cm
Legs 4 log blocks Ø 300 mm
Rack bottom 19 boards 2.5 * 7.5 * 240 cm
Decor 5 carved planks Pine 1.0 * 5.0 * 240 cm
In addition to the boards for work, I needed the following tools and materials:
- electric jigsaw and hacksaw,
- cordless screwdriver,
- marking pencil and eraser, metal ruler and level, centimeter tape measure, square and aluminum corner,
- sanding paper for sanding,
- wood glue
- hammer,
- varnish and stain or paint,
- wide brush, foam swab and felt sponge.
Assembling the frame of a wooden bed
After measurements were taken, I cut off long boards for sidewalls and short end boards. Next, I assembled the frame - the basis of the bed.
- To fasten the boards, I used wooden spikes and eyes. For such connections, I cut out the nests with an electric jigsaw. The depth of the grooves was about 50 mm and the width was about 20-30 mm.
- Then I greased the eyes with carpentry glue and carefully connected.
- Using a square, he leveled them and fixed them with clamps. Left for a day to dry the structure.
- To strengthen it, I then applied the usual aluminum corner to "ten".
This method is the most time-consuming, there is an easier way to assemble the bed frame using self-tapping screws. But this method is not very durable.
Installation of the bed on the legs
I chose not quite ordinary legs, but solid log blocks with cut out grooves from pine, which I smeared with wood glue before installation. Of course, the weight of the structure has increased, but my bed has acquired a certain monumentality. When installed on the legs, a level is necessarily used - this will extend the life of the bed.
Lamella frame assembly
The assembly and installation of the lamellar frame, otherwise called the lattice, is the next step in the instructions. The main task of this frame is to support an orthopedic mattress.
- First, I chose a wooden rail for the stopper and stuffed it on the inside of the frame, on the end of the board and the side parts. He made markings at a height of exactly 10 cm from the top edge of the board. Along the perimeter, it was strengthened with a dashed and solid line.
- Then I needed a square beam with a cross section of 30 mm, from the beam I already made the frame itself for the lamella frame.
- I fixed the frame on the inside of the bed frame.
- On the finished frame of the lamella frame, I filled a rail with dimensions of 150 * 4 * 20. Secured it across the length. The gap was 50-70 mm.
Finishing a wooden bed frame
When assembling the product, I used a detailed drawing, so everything went smoothly. When the assembly was completed, I cleaned the surface with a grinder, and then covered the frame with stain and varnish. Instead of varnish, you can use any oil or pentaphthalic paint on wood. The main thing is to determine the color so that the product blends harmoniously into the interior. Instead of paint, I gave the wood a stain, which I applied evenly with a brush. When everything was dry, I applied three layers of varnish with a foam swab. I polished the dried frame with a felt sponge.
The completion of the wooden bed
- I ordered a large decorative panel at the head of the bed in the carpentry workshop, having previously decided on the design.
- I decorated the sides of the frame with finished carved planks, which I purchased there.Such decorations do not burden the structure and are easily fastened with wood glue or small wood carnations on wood up to 20 mm in size.
- After some time, when the whole structure dried up, I put down the mattress. The work has been completed.
How to care for a wooden bed
I will also write some tips for caring for a wooden bed.
- The room should have a humidity range of 40% - 60%. Install a hygrometer to monitor performance. It is sold in any specialized store. There are many ways to adjust humidity - from air conditioners to household air humidifiers.
- It should be noted that when the heating season begins, the air in the bedroom will be much drier. Here you will need a humidifier.
- It is necessary to ensure that direct sunlight does not fall on the bed. From their influence, the tree grows dull, becomes covered with cracks due to the fact that a smooth polishing layer is broken. Therefore, it is better to install the bed away from the window and away from heating appliances, and even from the stove, so that the tree does not dry out.
- It is also necessary to regularly wipe the dust with a slightly damp cloth, but not wet, because the tree does not like moisture. Now there are a lot of wood furniture care products in stores, I recommend periodically using polishing agents, they will give the wooden frame of the bed smoothness and shine, and they also have an antistatic effect.
All these simple tips will extend the life of your wooden bed.
And in conclusion, I want to say that a bed made of natural wood is beautiful and comfortable, and it is not so difficult to make it. A little patience and perseverance, and you will be rewarded with a pleasant sleep on a bed made by yourself.
